16 November

Today is the final day, but we do not fly out to Brisbane until later in the day so still some time to take in New Zealand's south island.

Jake is becoming attached to the seagull with only one leg and, despite the signs asking guests not to feed the birds, he cannot resist this little needy one! Our remaining bread and other scraps are eagerly devoured by the group.

Back around the lake, through the mountains as we head north to Christchurch where Bill is now feeling quite anxious about returning the campervan. They have our bags stored, so final packing cannot be done until we are at the depot, but this turns out to be a very smooth and quick process.

This left plenty of time for us to explore the Antarctica Exhibition, conveniently located near Christchurch Airport - and no doubt, like us the final call for many tourists. This holds a wonderful, interactive exhibition that leaves me feeling quite passionate about the need to preserve the Antarctic environment - the final continent that has not been significantly altered by man.

We also went for a ride in a fairly bumpy vehicle - apparently one used in the Antarctic environment. I am not so sure that the bumps and jerks were particularly good for my back, but I will survive.

A simulated snow storm in Antarctica is also quite an experience - one I do not necessarily want to experience in real life!

From here we are off to the airport and on our way home to Qld, where Jake will spend a few days before heading back down south.

Sunday 15 November

I was awake early, so enjoyed a walk along the beach by myself then a wander through the local cemetary. There is a slight drizzle and a definite chill to the air down here on this southern peninsula.

After the usual breakfast routine, we undertook a fairly boring and uneventful drive, broken only by a stop at a local market along the way.

The weather looked quite grim (apparently it is snowing in the west) until we headed through some backroads towards Akaroa - on the Banks Peninsula. Like much of New Zealand - that retains the feel of its European settlers, this area was settled by the French. Although very touristy, it is also very beautiful.

With a vast lake in the basin of what is a long extinct volcano, surrounded by the soaring mountains it is a mecca for shops, boating, fishing etc. Some of the French culture is retained with shops and street names retaining their French labels.

We spent a few hours wandering through the shops and Jake was pleased with a less touristy tiki he managed to buy for his Dad for only $26!

We stayed at a nearby Top 10 Holiday Park, which was perched on the hillside above Akaroa. As a result there were fabulous views over the mountains, lake and township. Unfortunately we did not have a front row seat, but were still able to walk through other vans to enjoy this view. There is also a track that leads down to the township, but we are too tired to be bothered.... Instead we opt to relax around the camp ground - something which went a long way to ensuring peace in the ranks. As it is our last night, a cook-up of leftovers resulted in a fairly tasty mince concoction which was devoured before showers. The usual evening nibbly snack and wine - once again 'whatever is left over', while also starting some preliminary sorting ready for packing in the morning.

Our trip is coming to an end.

14 November

24 hours without rain at Lake Manapouri! I lay awake much of the night, looking at a beautiful starlit sky - not a cloud in sight.

As usual, we were on the road early. We were developing a routine of quick breakfast for Bill and I while Jake was asleep (after all it is 5am in Bendigo). I would prepare his breakfast of toast and a drink then as soon as we started up the campervan's motor we would hear him wake. Down he would come and have breakfast as we started the day. Everyone was in good spirits and a road-kill game became the morning's entertainment. Two birds decided to commit suicide on the front of our car to add to the mounting tally - which we were keeping in french. In a short time, the numbers were well into the hundreds...'cent et un, cent deux....' etc! Just a few french phrases to increase familiarity, but apparently his French teacher (with whom he does not have a good relationship!) has not taught 'Comment ca va?'!

Jake found that his family were all out when he rang home (it is Saturday after all, so why would he be surprised?), but it worried him. Today was a long drive, as we headed from the west coast to the south coast - leaving the rugged mountain scenery for somewhat more mundane rolling pasture. Winds were blowing up from Antarctica, so a quick stop in a park at Gae for a photo with a big trout before heading for Dunedin.

The Maori and Natural History exhibitions at the Otago Museum were an informative and interesting addition to our cultural education and a good way to pass a couple of hours before the necessary supermarket stop. We wound our way down the narrow road of the Otago peninsula, where the main interest was provided by sightings of seals and albatross.

The strain and tiredness from our busy itinerary so far were starting to impact, so at Shag Rocks (where we did think we might camp but I just had those 'bad vibes' - I think triggered by the litter and empty alcohol bottles on the ground)Jake and I walked along the beach watching seagulls, albatross and pied oyster catchers while Bill set up wine and chairs etc for our snack.

Despite its somewhat picturesque coastal location, I was not comfortable about this, as a camp spot so close to the road, so we packed up and moved down the road to a camp ground at Hampden. Not a flash spot, but located by the coast. We all just need a rest and the hot showers were a real bonus. Jake spoke to his Mum, so he too felt somewhat comforted.

13 November

'Real Tours' wharf - about 300m from Possum Lodge, was where we would start our tour at 9.45am. Although morning tea etc was provided, we would be away for the whole day so our bags needed to contain everything else we would need, including lunch. Whilst it is the responsibility of everyone to ensure their own bag has all they need, Nan ran through a list with Jake: Lunch... 'It's in the bag' Camera...'It's in the bag' Jumper....'It's in the bag' Hat....'It's in the bag' Rainjacket...'It's in the bag' .... Quite clearly he had it all well organised and it was all 'in the bag'! So off we set through the trees for the walk to the wharf.

After a boat trip across Lake Manapouri we joined a bus at the power station for the 25 minute trip across to the start of Doubtful Sound at Deep Bay. The driver gave an excellent commentary about slides, environmental features, wildlife and the history of the area. We stopped for some sight-seeing over Doubtful Sound, having passed some spectacular scenery. Aboard another boat for the trip up the sound. Can you get tired of steep cliffs, snow capped mountains, waterfalls? Not really, but we did realise that photographing every snow capped mountain was just going to provide us with thousands of pictures of snow capped mountains, so we sat back and just enjoyed the scenery. Perhaps we needed to be a little more vigilant about Jake's movements about the boat. Judging by the number of hot chocolate sachets that came out of his bag later that night, I think the supply was somewhat dwindled by a resourceful lad!

The weather had settled enough for us to go out of the mouth of the sound into the Tasman Sea, where on an island at the entrance a colony of seals were basking on the rocks. The weather inside the sound was calm, so the boat motors were cut for some period and we were able to listen to the sounds of the wilderness. On this occasion the weather was in our favour, because it rains 2 days out of 3 for 8 months of the year.

As we started our return trip we went into Crooked Fjord, where local dolphins gave an excellent display of their leaping abilities before swimming for some distance alongside the boat. These Bottlenose Dolphins - the same species as back home, are much larger - apparently due to the extremely cold water in which they live and the resultant need to carry a greater layer of blubber.

Interestingly, we saw no more than one or two other small boats on the Sound during the whole day so there really was a feeling that we had been in the wilderness. Being less well known than the nearby Milford Sound, which has an abundance of tourism and large boats plying its waters it is a truly magical place.

Back up the sound at full speed and onto the bus again for the trip to the Power Station, where we drove down the 2km tunnel to view the underground hydroelectric power station, owned by Meridion. This was an amazing, yet daunting experience. There is a reason why NZ is sometimes referred to as "The shaky isles" and here we were down a tunnel 2km underground. Water seeped through the walls onto the roadway. I think Jake was a little concerned, as were we all so we whilst it was incredibly interesting, we were all a little relieved to see daylight again!

Once again passed many of the spectacular waterfalls that are so prevalent in this area then back to the wharf.

While Bill and I walked up to a local shop for milk, Jacob stayed at the camp and made sandwiches for dinner. A busy day. Nobody felt like cooking - especially me!

11 November

Steady rain on the roof of the van overnight kept me awake. Anxiety had me imagining bogging a full sized campervan down the narrow dirt track in the bush that we had gone down to find our camp site for the night. Jacob was also restless, so joined us in our bed. His hutch above the cabin of the truck was a little confined and the comfort of snuggling up with Nan and Pop was just what was needed.

So, because we were all awake early, the usual early start through misty, but spectacular scenery with snow capped mountains, waterfalls and rivers saw us drive clear of the mountain mist and into a bright, clear day alongside Lake Warnaka. Perfect weather to take a 40 minute helicopter ride from Warnaka to the top of Mt Pisa, for a snow landing. We had seen so much of it atop the mountains that it was taunting us somewhat! We needed to actually feel it! Another landing gave us awesome views of the lake and village.

Steve, our pilot was extremely proficient and very informative and helpful. Jake looked just the perfect co-pilot sitting proudly alongside him.

After this a wander through the Transport and Toy Museum was interesting, but not somewhere that we needed to spend more than an hour or two so we were able to fit in a quick supermarket shop before making the decision that the caravan park at Warnaka was just too expensive and not really our scene. On the road again, we headed back to Albert Town where we camped by the river. Not many facilities in this council stop, but water and toilets - enough for us for an overnighter! We had stopped on the way at a place recommended by Steve for a hot chocolate. Very European style and much too rich for even the chocolate loving Bill! We all actually felt a bit sick from it, so driving was a somewhat somber event. It was lovely to just relax by the river with the ducks and sparrows, then play a few games of poker before dinner. We felt this a good time to give Jacob his greenstone hook that we had bought back at Hokitika. He seemed quite proud to be immersing in the Maori culture and was showing real interest in the cultural tourism.

Tuesday 10th November

Another early start, with that well coordinated breakfast saw us on the road by 8am. We headed towards the west coast. Rain and mist shrouded the mountains creating a vastly different image to that of the last couple of days. A scene very reminiscent of Frodo's habitat.

A morning shopping trip at Hokitika, where green stone souvenirs could be purchased from the factory where they were being carved. From here we headed out to Franz Josef Glacier, through the misty rain. We rugged up for the showery walk out along the stony river bed to the face of the glacier. Unfortunately beyond the towering face it was somewhat masked by the mist. Just as we arrived, a large fall of ice and rock was a good reminder of the dangers of climbing near the face of glaciers. People can and do lose their lives on this glacier.

Back to the carpark - about a 2 hour walk for a cuppa and a warm-up. We decided to head towards Warnaka - driving while the weather was not so good. A few dryer stops along the way beside lakes and at a point where it is said approximately 800 fur seal stop to rest. We were also feeling the need for a rest, so a camp spot some distance beyond Haast was just what we needed. Pizza for dinner then the challenge of working out how to shower in the van! Nothing like a confined space shower, but we all felt the better for it.

9 November 2009

Streamlined our breakfast so that it could be packed away quickly and we were on our way to Hamner Springs. It was a colder day, with a distinct alpine feel in the air - something that was reflected in this pretty, alpine town. Had a look through the town and bought postcards while waiting for the thermal springs to open at 10am.

It was a perfect day to 'chill out' in various naturally heated thermal pools, ranging from 37 - 41 degrees. Although we bought Jacob a pass for the slide, he was about the only person using it - which is not much fun, so we decided to move on toward Arthur's Pass. How could we have resisted stopping for a late lunch at Ashley? It was quite cold outside and Pop needed a rest, so Jacob and I wandered through the park and some shops before heading off on our way again.

We decided on a route through Waimakariri Pass - just for the scenery. This may have been a bad move, but really the experience was just a part of the whole package. Without being held up for 2 hours due to an earlier truck accident, which had blocked one of the long, single lane bridges with pipes and debris we would never have chatted to so many accepting New Zealanders. Jacob would not have had the conversation with the lady who told him that her 'cat had sex kittens this morning'. Jacob was soon found with tears rolling down his face, laughing in the van! The same lady was held up from returning to her children, who were alone on the other side of the river. During one of the many phone calls to them they asked if they could play with their Christmas presents - which they had found! Talk about striking when she could do nothing about it! After a pleasant couple of hours chatting to locals (we were grateful for the mobile kitchen on board, so coffee and snacks were plentiful), we headed slowly off to Arthur's Pass. Snow capped mountains poked up as we came through gaps or around bends. Creeks, rushing with melted snow raced under the many single lane bridges. Darkness had fallen and it was time to stop by the roadside, with a backdrop of mountains - just a bit west of Arthur's Pass.